Table Saw: Difference between revisions
Adamcolton (talk | contribs) |
Adamcolton (talk | contribs) |
||
| (One intermediate revision by the same user not shown) | |||
| Line 35: | Line 35: | ||
* Splines | * Splines | ||
* cross cuts | * cross cuts | ||
* Miter (matched 45°) | * Miter (matched 45°) - may require sub assembly | ||
* tapering | |||
I'd like to be able to use this with the blade tilted. But to keep the edges sharp, that means one of the edges needs to move. | I'd like to be able to use this with the blade tilted. But to keep the edges sharp, that means one of the edges needs to move. | ||
| Line 47: | Line 48: | ||
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSwO7ISvwcQ | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSwO7ISvwcQ | ||
The portions that come near the blade are made of hardboard so they can be replaced. The main pusher is fairly narrow, ~1". Two pieces that are the main hold down (~8" long) on either side, replaceable. Two adjustable legs in the back about 1" long actually push the wood. I also want a "stabilizer" that can extend either direction and adjust vertically to either sit on the wood or on the table. | |||
=== Feather Board === | === Feather Board === | ||
Latest revision as of 12:46, 25 June 2020
http://www.instructables.com/id/Table-Saw-Station/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Tabe-Saw-Part-1-Motor-Mount-Adjusta/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53rtu1wmoAc
To Build
Sled
I really like the Mattias auto-stop feature. After cutting the box splines, it would also be nice if I could drop in some 45° blocks to hold a box.
I need to rebuild mine. The one I have is both too heavy and not as useful as I'd like. The next build should have longer tracks. I think I can use a much thinner base for the bottom of the sled. I'd also like to put in a stop this time and better saw guard. It should be sized to contain that blade at it's max height with a decent padding (~1/4" all the way around, so 3/4" wood). I like the box joint indexing tool I saw.
I saw one that had hand holes on the back fence to make it each to hold down thin stock, avoiding the harder position of nearly vertical hands. This would also reduce weight.
- http://www.stumpynubs.com/sleds.html
- A [Tamara]
- B https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruQsRNsrCYU&list=WL&index=14
- I would add a bit of iron to the angle side to attach the magnet of the angle finder
- C [Flat]
Features
- Extension fence (A)
- Adjustable bevel (B)
- 2 rail miter (A)
- Hand holes (not sure where)
- Screw advance (B)
- Stop mechanism
- Kerf pin (for quick box joints)
- Back should be very minimal (just for support
- Honeycomb structural bottom with thin solid top (C 4:21)
Want
- Box joints
- Splines
- cross cuts
- Miter (matched 45°) - may require sub assembly
- tapering
I'd like to be able to use this with the blade tilted. But to keep the edges sharp, that means one of the edges needs to move.
Pushers
I like the I-Build-It ones
I'd also like to make a Micro-Jig style: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZdJEEyZ07w
Should have 3 legs. The right two ride on the piece of wood and have high grid sand paper glued in place for grip. The right most leg will need to be very thin, ~1/4", so I'll probably need hardwood or sheet metal. The left leg moves up to parallel with the other two so it can also sit on the wood, or it can drop down up to 1.5" for stability. The back needs an overhang. I'm not sure if this should be adjustable. It would be hard to make it adjustable on the right leg.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSwO7ISvwcQ
The portions that come near the blade are made of hardboard so they can be replaced. The main pusher is fairly narrow, ~1". Two pieces that are the main hold down (~8" long) on either side, replaceable. Two adjustable legs in the back about 1" long actually push the wood. I also want a "stabilizer" that can extend either direction and adjust vertically to either sit on the wood or on the table.
Feather Board
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52g2_-N_gtM
Stand
The saw stands up on it's own, but I'd like to make either a stand to fit under it, or a stand that it can sit on (with the legs folded up). Top will collect saw dust and the rest should be storage for all the jigs and attachments.
It might make more sense to use a finger board than a feather board. It might also be nice to be able to support it from the top too.
Zero Clearance Inserts
Make a few at once.
Box joint jig
Not sure which style, but build one. I kind of like the one that just uses templates
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v1QYKWgTvs
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pAjlTSt660
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2qwQqW1d68 --> Best so far