Greenhouse: Difference between revisions
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The goal here is simple. Gain experience, get something functional. Very straight construction. 5.5' tall walls, 30° slope roof that reach a height of about 8' in the center. | The goal here is simple. Gain experience, get something functional. Very straight construction. 5.5' tall walls, 30° slope roof that reach a height of about 8' in the center. | ||
==== Layout ==== | |||
It will be 7ftx15ft. Internally, there will be a vertical garden wall on the north side, 3 ft of open walk space in the center with hanging pots and 2ft of raised gardens on the south side. | It will be 7ftx15ft. Internally, there will be a vertical garden wall on the north side, 3 ft of open walk space in the center with hanging pots and 2ft of raised gardens on the south side. | ||
==== Construction === | |||
Pole construction, treated lumber in concrete anchors. It takes 5 8' 2x4s to construct one section of the frame. At $5.25 per, that's $26.25 each. If these are spaced 3' apart, I need 6 of them for $157, plus there will be 7 supports that run the length, for an additional 21ft of 2x5 for another $70. The sides and roof have a perimeter length of 21', by the 15' that's 315sqft. At $0.11 per sqft of covering, it's $35, but I'll double glaze for $70. So far, that's $300. Call it $400 for the nails and concrete. | Pole construction, treated lumber in concrete anchors. It takes 5 8' 2x4s to construct one section of the frame. At $5.25 per, that's $26.25 each. If these are spaced 3' apart, I need 6 of them for $157, plus there will be 7 supports that run the length, for an additional 21ft of 2x5 for another $70. The sides and roof have a perimeter length of 21', by the 15' that's 315sqft. At $0.11 per sqft of covering, it's $35, but I'll double glaze for $70. So far, that's $300. Call it $400 for the nails and concrete. | ||
I will do two rows of cinder blocks at the base to add some rigidity and anchor the covering. | I will do two rows of cinder blocks at the base to add some rigidity and anchor the covering. | ||
==== Design and Equipment ==== | |||
I'll need fans to move air in the summer. This also means incorporating windows. To start simple, just use box fans. I think one at either end should be fine. | |||
This will give me a change to work with the automation. Pumps to move water through the hydroponics systems. Filters for incoming rainwater. | |||
==== Cost ==== | |||
I have not yet estimated the cost for the vertical wall, tools to aid with temperature regulation, setting up hydro or aquaponics, but let's call all that $1000. | I have not yet estimated the cost for the vertical wall, tools to aid with temperature regulation, setting up hydro or aquaponics, but let's call all that $1000. | ||
Revision as of 19:55, 31 July 2019
In the center will be a large Koi pond, probably about 10x10x4. This serves as the reserve for watering the plants. The koi living in the pond will supply nutrients to the water. Water will be pumped from the pond to a small water tower, automatic sprinklers then just have to open a valve. Rain water from the roof will drain into the koi pond.
I also want a small patio area because I think the greenhouse will become a functional space, great for reading.
http://www.themodernhomestead.us/article/Greenhouse+Basics.html
I can get Polyethylene at around $0.11/sqft, or as low as $0.073.
Versions
1.0
The goal here is simple. Gain experience, get something functional. Very straight construction. 5.5' tall walls, 30° slope roof that reach a height of about 8' in the center.
Layout
It will be 7ftx15ft. Internally, there will be a vertical garden wall on the north side, 3 ft of open walk space in the center with hanging pots and 2ft of raised gardens on the south side.
= Construction
Pole construction, treated lumber in concrete anchors. It takes 5 8' 2x4s to construct one section of the frame. At $5.25 per, that's $26.25 each. If these are spaced 3' apart, I need 6 of them for $157, plus there will be 7 supports that run the length, for an additional 21ft of 2x5 for another $70. The sides and roof have a perimeter length of 21', by the 15' that's 315sqft. At $0.11 per sqft of covering, it's $35, but I'll double glaze for $70. So far, that's $300. Call it $400 for the nails and concrete.
I will do two rows of cinder blocks at the base to add some rigidity and anchor the covering.
Design and Equipment
I'll need fans to move air in the summer. This also means incorporating windows. To start simple, just use box fans. I think one at either end should be fine.
This will give me a change to work with the automation. Pumps to move water through the hydroponics systems. Filters for incoming rainwater.
Cost
I have not yet estimated the cost for the vertical wall, tools to aid with temperature regulation, setting up hydro or aquaponics, but let's call all that $1000.
At $1500, it needs to offset $75/year to be worth the investment.
I can iterate on this by extending it lengthwise.
2.0
This will be 14' wide (2g,3w,4g,3w,2g) by 30' long.
If the foundation approach on v1 works, I'll continue with that. If not, I will pour a foundation around the perimeter. Probably 3' deep and rising ~6" above ground. Embed a bolt about every foot and the whole thing will be bolted to this. If I'm doing this, it may also be worthwhile to add insulation.
3.0
This should be the final revision at 21' (2g,3w,4g,3w,4g,3w,2g) x 60'.
I've always liked the idea of using part of this as living space. Specifically, doing aquaponics using a small pond to grow the tilapia with a small patio near it.
Automation
Based on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZiqUZGjGc0
The core will be an Arduino (or two) with either a wifi shield or connected to a RasPi (or something completely different - I'm not sure what will be available).
Water
The garden will be broken up into grids. Each grid will be a physical PVC grid (or manifold) with small holes to act as a direct soil sprinkler (cheaper version of drip irrigation). The size of the grid will be how large it can be while maintaining pressure. Each grid will be controlled by a solenoid. Each will have a soil-moisture detector (easy to make). When the soil moisture gets too low, it will send the central control a request. The central control will only activate one grid at a time (pressure).
Temperature
The pond should help stabilize the temperature passively. There will be a fan if it gets too hot. It would be nice to have some way to chance the thermal conductance of the pond (I'm thinking giant heat sink). I may also include heat-lamps or propane, but that would be for emergency frosts.