Electronics Apothecary: Difference between revisions
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I'll just hope there's enough scrap for inserts. And if there's not, I can get more later. | I'll just hope there's enough scrap for inserts. And if there's not, I can get more later. | ||
I could potentially save a lot of lumber by not having the internal be solid. The front vertical bars would be 1/2" square. The horizontal bars would be 1/2"x1.5" with 1/2" notches cut in the front and a 1/2" rabbet along the back. The rear would follow the same pattern. The rabbets would accept a mating T rail that supports the bottom and lower sides of the drawers. | I could potentially save a lot of lumber by not having the internal be solid. The front vertical bars would be 1/2" square. The horizontal bars would be 1/2"x1.5" with 1/2" notches cut in the front and a 1/2" rabbet along the back. The rear would follow the same pattern. The rabbets would accept a mating T rail that supports the bottom and lower sides of the drawers. [https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/2yv2js/assembled_apothecary_cabinet_frame/ here's] an example of that style. | ||
[[Category:Workshop]] | [[Category:Workshop]] | ||
Revision as of 20:01, 9 October 2018
I made a pair of resistor boxes that came out decently well. But they were made from pretty cheap plywood.
A 6x5 apothecary could be a great way to organize the parts. Drawers can all be constructed with half blind lock joints. Evenly space slots for separators ever 1.5". These as label and handle.
Assembling everything with sliding dovetails could also work.
The builds I've looked at end up with very thin sections because they cut a dado in each side. I like this version of a long cross lap joint with a shallow dado to guide it.
Measurements
Each drawer will have an internal measurement of 2" x 3.5" x 10" (check this)
Wood thickness will be 1/2" everywhere, except drawer bottoms that will be 1/4".
This gives drawers an external dimension of 3" x 4" x 11"; a strip of wood 4" x 28" plus the kerf, call it 29". I need 30x of those. A piece 8.25" wide and 1.25" deep would yield 4 drawers for every 29", so I need about 18' for the drawers.
The cabinet will end up being 23" tall and 21" wide. So I need 6 boards that are 23"x10" and 7 boards that are 21"x10". So about 24' of 5" x 1.25" board.
Then I need enough material for the drawer bottoms. I can cut those really thin on the bandsaw, 4 per 1.25". They'll be 10.5"x2.5". So a 5.25" wide, 1.25" deep will yield 8 per 10.5". So 4' should do it there.
I'll just hope there's enough scrap for inserts. And if there's not, I can get more later.
I could potentially save a lot of lumber by not having the internal be solid. The front vertical bars would be 1/2" square. The horizontal bars would be 1/2"x1.5" with 1/2" notches cut in the front and a 1/2" rabbet along the back. The rear would follow the same pattern. The rabbets would accept a mating T rail that supports the bottom and lower sides of the drawers. here's an example of that style.